Sunday, January 18, 2015

Australian Financial Review's Best wine books of 2014

Best wine books of 2014: sip and flip

Eric Asimov

This year’s harvest of the best new wine books includes works on barolo and barbaresco, a nefarious scheme to destroy precious vines in Burgundy and a book so lovely you will crave wines from Vermont, of all places. All would make great gifts. Even better, buy one for yourself.

Among the world’s great wine regions, the Piedmont in north-western Italy, home of barolo and barbaresco, has lagged far behind in focused English language appraisals. Kerin O’Keefe’s Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine (University of California Press) goes a long way to fill the void. O’Keefe, an American wine critic who lives in Italy, offers a comprehensive look at the history, geography, geology and issues faced in the Piedmont, and opinionated profiles of the producers she feels are the best and most important.

O’Keefe, who wrote a similar guide to brunello di Montalcino in 2012, is thorough and authoritative. She is a critic in the best sense of the word, not shy with her opinions, which she offers without polemics or bluster. This book is not for novices; readers are expected to have an understanding of how wine is farmed and produced. But for those who have delved into barolo and barbaresco and want to know more about where the wines are made, the people who make them and the differences in terroirs, this book is inspiring and essential.

I won’t mince words about Unlikely Vineyard: The Education of a Farmer and Her Quest for Terroir (Chelsea Green), Deirdre Heekin’s chronicle of establishing a fAn arm and vineyard in Vermont.

I love this book, which conveys beautifully why the best wine is, at heart, an agricultural expression
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