Thursday, January 30, 2014

Dish mangazine - Salted Caramel, Coffee and Toasted Meringue Cake

Salted Caramel, Coffee and Toasted Meringue Cake

This divine cake can be glammed up with the toasted meringue but is equally delicious with just a drizzle of coffee icing or a flurry of icing sugar. You can make the filling 2 days ahead and the cake 1 day before. Then assemble and flash through a hot oven.

View Recipe


Posted: 29 Jan 2014 by David Lebovitz

ÉtamineSometimes when I’m asked about what I miss from “home” (ie: the US). I might answer dried pluots, crunchy organic peanut butter, aluminum foil that you can’t read the newspaper through, and an unending supply of Sharpies. (Although thanks to a slew of well-meaning friends and other folks passing through, I now have an unending supply of them here in France.) But I no longer sherpa over cheesecloth, because I’ve found something better: Étamine.


Way back when, I brought over a few packages of cheesecloth for such culinary projects as soaking fruitcakes in liquor (with mixed success), at times…and draining cream or yogurt for homemade cheeses, marmalade-making, and labneh. Then I discovered the gauzy, wispy fabric known as étamine and I haven’t gone back to cheesecloth. Nor have I asked anyone to sherpa some over for me. (And I can finagle them into bringing other things, such as dried pluots.)

Continue Reading Étamine...

Monday, January 27, 2014

Fish in a flash, chilled soups, no-cook meals – fast and fuss-free

Gourmet Traveller

Fish in a flash, chilled soups, no-cook meals – fast and fuss-free. Get a preview of our new issue with our recipe slideshow.

Plus, our favourite Chinese recipes; our travel guide to Zurich; a classic recipe for fried rice; and the opportunity to win a Rado watch by filling out our online survey or an ultimate home coffee kit thanks to Melbourne Food & Wine Festival!

Happy eating,

Anthea Loucas and the team at Gourmet Traveller

A Homegrown Table: Food to eat with family and friends by Emma Dean< Winner Masterchef Australia 2013

Emma Dean, winner of the 2013 Masterchef Australia, is fast on her way to becoming a household name in Australia. Growing up on a hobby farm, she developed a love for everything fresh and seasonal from an early age. Her earthy style is reflected in her paddock-to-plate approach to this, her first recipe collection, using food grown or foraged to create a wonderful range of meals.  

With over 80 recipes for every time of the day, Emma combines the familiar with the unusual, showcasing different cuts of meat, heirloom vegetables and wild greens.

Emma’s first book incorporates her love of food from the land to the plate including her love of foraging and with her easy style of cooking this is the ideal book for people who not only have an interest in cooking but have an interest in the food that comes on their plate.

New Holland -Hardback - NZ$ 49.9


The Nigella Collection: covetable new editions of Nigella Lawson’s bestselling cookbooks is to be published in a stylish new series format.

The series, published by Chatto & Windus - an imprint of the Penguin Random House Group, will launch in April 2014 with two titles: NIGELLA EXPRESS, which has sold over a million copies in the UK, and baking classic, HOW TO BE A DOMESTIC GODDESS.

Each of Nigella’s nine books will be repackaged in hardback with striking, witty covers, complete with sumptuous new endpapers featuring Nigella at work in the kitchen. The new designs and endpapers will also be available as eBooks.

Following the April launch, HOW TO EAT and NIGELLA SUMMER (previously titled Forever Summer) will be published in June, with the remaining five titles made available throughout the rest of 2014 and early 2015.

Nigella says 'When Chatto asked me to be involved in the redesign of my books I was excited by the idea and thrilled with the results. Even though I am an eBook convert I still adore a “real book” and the whole hands-on production of it – cover, paper, typeface. So to see GODDESS and EXPRESS in a glorious new livery is thrilling. I hope that fellow cooks will love them as warmly as I do.’

And report from The Bookseller"

New look for Nigella:

Fifteen years after the release of her first book, Chatto & Windus is to reissue Nigella Lawson's nine books as the "Nigella Collection", repackaged in what the publisher calls “covetable new editions”.
The Penguin Random House imprint will launch the series in April with two titles – Nigella Express and How To Be A Domestic Goddess. Each of the books will be available in hardback with covers designed by Caz Hildebrand, creative partner, and Camille Blais, senior designer, at Here Design.
There will also be new endpapers featuring Lawson at work in the kitchen, and the new designs and endpapers will also be available as e-books.

Clara Farmer, publishing director at Chatto & Windus, said: “Fifteen years after the publication of How to Eat we are delighted to celebrate this milestone with a vibrant new look for Nigella’s classic cookery books, incorporating sleek design with a playful twist and beautiful new endpaper photography. Nigella is one of our most loved and respected cookery writers and these deliciously designed and packaged editions will appeal to fans, old and new.”

Lawson said: “When Chatto asked me to be involved in the redesign of my books I was excited by the idea and thrilled with the results. Even though I am an e-book convert I still adore a “real book” and the whole hands-on production of it – cover, paper, typeface. So to see Goddess and Express in a glorious new livery is thrilling. I hope that fellow cooks will love them as warmly as I do.”

In June How to Eat and Nigella Summer, previously called Forever Summer, will be published with the remaining five titles made available throughout the rest of 2014 and early 2015.
Nigella Express has sold 876,581 copies through Nielsen BookScan, How To Be A Domestic Goddess 381,134, How to Eat 325,268, and Forever Summer 206,011.

Boudin Noir

Posted: 27 Jan 2014 - David Lebovitz

Boudin NoirI’m not one of those “extreme eaters” and I doubt you’ll ever see me on one of those television shows showing off how brave I am, boasting about eating Lord-knows-what. In fact, I am the opposite end: I’m a defender of those who don’t want to eat certain things. Who cares what other people’s food preferences are?*
A few years back I got to cook with Andrew Zimmern, the host of “Bizarre Foods” who had come to France. To be honest, I didn’t know who he was because I’ve been away from the States for a while. I was amazed when we went to my local market to shop on a sleepy Sunday morning, when suddenly, out of the woodwork, swarms of Americans descended on him. (Notice I said “him” and not “us” – hrrmmph!)
But being the gentleman that I am, I stepped aside to let the crowd through. And after spending a day with him, I’d have to agree: Next time I see him, I’m going to swarm him (again), too. He is one of the loveliest and most fun people I’ve ever met.

Boudin Noir
As much as I kind of fell for him, I still don’t share his proclivity for eating all sorts of oddities, although I am sometimes curious about them. People have asked me, “Why are Americans so squeamish about what they eat?” which is rather odd because Americans eat a lot of hot dogs – and Lord knows what’s in those…and some eat whatever is in that packet of orange powder that comes with boxed macaroni & cheese. (Which I recently bought on a whim because I saw it in a store, which was definitely not as good as I remembered.) And I have French friends who would never eat rabbit, kidneys, brains, or any of les autres abats (offal).

Continue Reading Boudin Noir...

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Greens, Biscuit and Telegraph Avenue

Posted on bookcooker: 26 Jan 2014 

I am a big Michael Chabon fan.  The Adventures of Cavalier and Clay is one of my top 10 favorite books.  I was excited about when Telegraph Avenue came out - Chabon always creates characters that are quirky and unique but who I emotionally connect to (even though they are almost always male).  Alas, Telegraph Avenue didn't do it for me in the way Chabon's previous work has.  It took me over a month to get through it, which is a departure for someone who usually reads books in a week or two.   In the end I made it through and am glad that I did, but I am not sure I would recommend the book to others.  Telegraph Avenue is a street in Oakland that is traditionally African American but runs from Oakland into Berkley so serves as a symbol in the book of the particular Northern Californian mix - hippie, African American, affluent liberal whites.  The novel is about race, gentrification, growing up, love, marriage, family, fatherhood, sexual identity and friendship.  To me the book felt overstuffed - with ideas, with themes, with obscure movie and music references, and with long descriptive sentences.  It was hard for me to connect with the characters because of all of this other stuff.  While I didn't love the book, it did present good food inspiration.  As soon as I read the words "yeasted biscuits" I was intrigued.  I have made regular buttermilk biscuits often and lamented that they did not rise as high as the ones I would get in hipster Southern restaurants.  I hoped yeast would get that sky high look I had yearned for.  In the book, one of the main characters, Nat, makes these biscuits, along with greens and fried chicken, in an attempt to win over some people in his neighborhood to support the used record store he owns with his best friend Archie in an epic battle with a hip hop superstore looking to move into the neighborhood.  I decided to focus on the greens and biscuits - together a great warming winter supper. 

Telegraph Avenue has a lot going on. The central characters of the novel are Archie Stalling and Nat Jaffe  - friends, black and white respectively, who own a used record store  called "Brokeland Records" on Telegraph Avenue.   Archie and Nat's wives  (Gwen and Aviva) work together as midwives.  Nat and Aviva have a teenage son Julius, who becomes friends (and secret lovers) with Archie's previously unknown teenage son Titus.   Gwen is pregnant with her first child and before she finds out about Titus, she discovers Archie cheating on her. Archie has a wayward father, Lester Stallings, who was a star in kung-fu blaxpoitation movies in the 70's but now is a former junkie.  Is that enough plot for you?  Chabon throws in some more - Archie and Nat's store, Brokeland, is is trouble because a hip hop superstore, Dogpile, owned by a former star athlete, is about to move in next store.  The community is divided as to whether this new store is good or bad for the neighborhood - Nat is vehemently against it and Archie is a bit more ambivalent  - causing a crisis in their friendship.  
Add into this is the reappearance of Archie's deadbeat father, a former kung fu movie star who has gotten himself in trouble with the owner of Dogpile and a local alderman.  All of this would be a lot to communicate in a novel, but Chabon adds on to this a large serving of obscure cultural references - music (the rare records Brokeland sells), blaxpoitation movies, kung-fu movies, Quentin Tarantino movies, and general political and societal commentary.  Each character has a rich inner life, but the inner dialogue that Chabon creates is so convoluted it is not believable in all cases.  
Moreover, this bloated prose made me give up sometimes on a sentence, a paragraph, a chapter, a character.    Waiting beneath all the words is a really compelling story about friendship and race and society but most overwhelmingly about fatherhood (Archie's broken relationship with his father, his abandonment of his own son, his nervousness about how he would treat his unborn child) - this is the what I think Chabon really wanted to write about, but tried instead to say something profound and cool about a whole lot of things instead of just one or two.  There is a book inside of Telegraph Avenue that I would have really liked and I hope that Chabon pares it down next time around.

Friday, January 24, 2014

Should You Remove the Green Germ from Garlic?

Posted: 24 Jan 2014 01:07 - David Lebovitz


Garlic has a season, and depending on where you live, that season is usually spring through mid-summer. In France, we get ail nouveau, which are heads of garlic that are very plump and slightly soft, whose moist skin is tinged with a bit of pink. As it ages, the garlic becomes more rosy in color, and there is even a special “rose” garlic in France called ail rose de Lautrec, whose status is certified by the French government. As the months progress, garlic season ends and the remaining heads go into storage.


In France, garlic that has been kept is often referred to as ail sec, or dried garlic. And in many cases, during storage, those cloves of garlic will develop a green germ inside that is said to be bitter and should be removed. I know, because I’ve said that myself. But I’ve never really put it to the test. So when a friend, who worked closely with Marcella Hazan (an expert on Italian cuisine) told me that Marcella never removed the green germ (her reasoning being that since it was new garlic in the making, it was tender and not bitter), I figured it would be interesting to see – and taste – if removing it really did make a difference.

Continue Reading Should You Remove the Green Germ from Garlic?...

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

The Toronto Cocktail

Toronto Cocktail recipe
Posted: 21 Jan 2014 - David Lebovitz

I was part of a whole generation of San Franciscans that were terrorized by Bruno, a cantankerous, older Persian man who had a bar in the Haight called Persian Aub Zam Zam. I’ve probably mentioned him before, but I recently went down that rabbit hole of the Internet where I found a few stories about him via a search for something else. 

Then…well, we all knows where that leads…
He believed that if you’re going to have a drink at a bar, you should have it at the actual bar. I don’t know why he had a few tables and chairs around the outskirts of the dark room, because anyone that came in and tried to take a seat at one would be yelled at by Bruno – “The tables are closed. Get the hell out of here!

Cocktail glasses
Am not sure if they were just for decoration or what, but he would also flip out on people if they ordered a foofy cocktail, such as a Cosmopolitan, a Screwdriver…or heck, anything that wasn’t a classic cocktail on his pre-approved list. If you wanted to stay on his good side, you’d order a Martini – one made with gin. An order for a Vodka Martini would get you tossed out. And in contrast to what some “experts” might advise, he didn’t shake or stir his (gin) Martinis, he “pounded” the $2.50 cocktail with a muddler, which resulted in an icy-cold drink, served (or course) in a classic Martini glass. And your change was always a shiny half-dollar coin snapped down on the bar after you paid.

Continue Reading The Toronto Cocktail...

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Jamie’s recession

The Bookseller 21 January, 2014

It may be a trifle unfair to say that someone who recorded £6.2m in sales had a bad 2013, but this is Jamie Oliver’s worst output through BookScan since his breakout in 2000—barring the hardback-less 2003 (£2.8m).

With hindsight it seems that a recession-themed cookery title was a couple of years too late; Save with Jamie (Michael Joseph) did not have the resonance of a usual Oliver, selling 297,000 copies for £3.2m, his lowest-selling autumn hardback since Jamie’s America (239,623 units for £2.9m in 2009). As the second-bestselling author since records began, Oliver is measured by a different yardstick so this is relative; Save with Jamie was, by some £800,000, the bestselling cookery title by value in 2013.

Oliver should steel himself for a flood of “is Jamie over?” articles. But he has a habit of bouncing back: the follow-up to Jamie’s America was Jamie’s 30-Minute Meals, which at £24.5m has sold twice as much (by value) as any other non-fiction title since records began.

The Naked Chef still led the cookery/diet pack, a group that is becoming increasingly crowded at the top. Nine chefs and one diet guru (Spencer) are in the chart—the previous high was five chefs in 2008—including Top 50 débutants Paul Hollywood and Tom Kerridge. An additional four cookery/diet authors shifted over £1m through the TCM in 2013: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Gordon Ramsay, Delia Smith and The 2-Day Diet author Dr Michelle Harvie.

Winners by countries - Gourmand Awards 2014

Check them out here


Comfort Food, According to Ellie Krieger
The Food Network host and cookbook author talks healthy twists on hearty classics, how to get meatballs on the table in half an hour, and how she handles hardcore pizza cravings. more

Lee Schrager's 3 Essential Cookbooks
The founder of the Food Network South Beach and New York City Wine & Food festivals shares his cookbook inspirations. more

This Week’s Bestselling Cookbooks
Rocco DiSpirito's "Pound a Day Diet" lands on PW's bestseller list -- but it's far from the only health-conscious book flying off the shelves right now. more

Marc Forgione: Recipes and Stories from the Acclaimed Chef and Restaurant
In his first cookbook, chef/owner Forgione (a winner of Next Iron Chef) shares the story of his entry, survival, and ultimate success in the cutthroat world of the restaurant business. more

Dan Whalen's Thai Coconut Chicken Stuffed Cabbage
Dan Whalen offers a new take on traditional stuffed cabbage. more

Monday, January 20, 2014

Favourite mango recipes.

Gourmet Traveller

Nothing says summer like a juicy mango atop a luscious dessert or in a fresh warm weather salad. Check out our slideshow for some of our favourite mango recipes.

Plus, why expedition cruising is so popular; our recipe for Texan-style brisket; our guide to Guangzhou; a weekend away with GT in Wolgan Valley; and your chance to win a portable barbecue!

Happy eating,

Anthea Loucas and the team at Gourmet Traveller

Sunday, January 19, 2014

New cookbook from Matt Preston, popular Masterchef Australia judge

I have never met Matt Preston although I feel as if I know him through seeing him on TV so often in recent years. I  like him even more now after picking up his new cookbook while browsing at the Village Bookshop at Matakana last Saturday. I read his refreshing, honest and revealing introduction, flicked through the book looking at the beautifully illustrated, easy to follow recipes using ingredients easily found in most supermarkets, and decided on the spot that this would be $50 well spent !

Well if the first dish cooked from Matt's second cookbook, (his first by the way was Matt Preston's 100 Best Recipes), was anything to go by then we are in for some treats - Pork chops with roast figs (the new season is just underway) and a Byzantine sweet-sour balsamic and orange glaze.

Here's Matt writing in his introduction :

My new cookbook is full of recipes for stuff that is quite simply delicious, and that I cook for my family and friends. It's a wee bit different from my first book in that the dishes are fresher, lighter, healthier... Well, that was the idea. I then suggested all those naughty, over-the-top dishes that I also love. These had to go into a sealed section because, like a Bangkok nightclub act, they are just a little too full-on for the delicate stomachs of some, and for the good of your health. That section is sealed for your own safety. Please resist opening it if you are a helpless slave to your passions. In short, this book is like me. It starts out with REALLY GOOD intentions for a while until it is overwhelmed by temptation and then, quite frankly, once self-control is gone it turns into a bit of an orgiastic free-for-all. Good times! Welcome to the Pleasure Dome, my friends, please grab a fork. 
Matt Preston.

Do look out for this wonderful book at your local indie bookseller. It is a stunner.

Pan Macmillan Australia - NZ$50 - A$40

Time to Pay

Posted: 19 Jan 2014 - David Lebovitz


I won’t comment on the current foibles of a few amorous souls in Paris, although I’ve had a number of discussions with friends about it, both here in France and in the United States. It seems that not only do Americans and French have different views about the behavior of their public officials, mostly regarding what’s tolerated and acceptable to publish and discuss, versus what isn’t. After watching a presidential press conference where there was a spirited pledge to save a whole bunch of money via methods that have yet to be revealed (kind of like the upcoming discussion about the pesky task of coming up with a seating chart when it hasn’t been revealed who the guest of honor is planning to bring as his paramour), the rest of are spending our time pondering those who act with their unique version of plain ol’ common sense.

Not only do the French and Americans have different relationships politically, socially…and intimately with each another (being from San Francisco, admittedly, my views are a bit more skewed than others), there is also a difference in our relationship to money. The difference is easily observed at the cash register; when it’s time to pay in the United States, as the cashier is ringing up your stuff, you plan ahead and get your money ready so you can pay up when the time comes promptly, and be on your way. In France, when it’s time to pay, you stand and wait until the cashier gives you the total that’s due. And then, and only then, do you painstakingly extract your wallet from your pocket, and start the process of le règlement.

I assume that most adults have been buying things all their lives. But it seems like a shock to those who are told that the price of a head of lettuce will cost them 95 centimes. And it takes a moment to let it fully sink in. Then, and only then, each centime is counted out with more scrutiny than that which is bestowed upon our remarkably fearless leaders. Including someone who doesn’t fear slipping out the back door and zipping through their fancy-schmancy neighborhood of Paris strapped to the back a scooter in the dark of the night.


(But for those who wish to be a little more prudent, a local car rental outfit offered that perhaps éviter, or ditching, le scooter and switching to a car with tinted windows might yield a little more privacy.)
Continue Reading Time to Pay...